After our incredible Kenya safari, we wanted to wind down with some time at the beach. Initially, we considered going to the Kenyan coast, but then I learned about Mafia Island—a hidden gem in Tanzania. Renowned as the best diving spot in Eastern Africa and a prime location for swimming with whale sharks (typically from October to March), it was an easy decision to make.

Getting to Mafia Island

Mafia Island is a bit tricky to reach. The only direct flights are from Dar es Salaam, so we flew from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam and spent the night. The next morning, our adventure began with a propeller plane ride on Coastal Airways over the Tanzanian coast. Upon landing, we went straight from the plane to a boat for a double dive in the outer bay—no time wasted!

Diving in Mafia Island

Our diving experience on Mafia Island was unforgettable. We did four dives in the outer bay, and the sites were full of life, from vibrant corals to fascinating marine creatures.  We saw yellow snapper, large groupers, huge sting rays, and just a ton of life below the surface. It was clear visibility, calm waters and an easy set of drift dives.

Swimming with Whale Shark

Whale sharks are the largest fish in the ocean, reaching lengths of up to 20 meters. Despite their size, they are gentle giants that feed on plankton, making them completely harmless to humans. Their distinctive spotted patterns make each one unique, and swimming alongside them is an awe-inspiring experience.

This was undoubtedly the highlight of our trip and we actually did it on two separate occasions: one as a full day private tour with Mafia Island Experience and another as a morning private tour with Afro Whale Shark Safari.

On both occasions, the trip went like this: We hopped on the boat with an incredible crew consisting of a skipper, spotter, and guide who made the experience seamless and enjoyable.  They initially stopped at the pier to get intelligence on where the whale sharks were from the fisherman, and they we went to go look for them. The anticipation built as we scanned the water for any sign of them, and the excitement peaked the moment we spotted their fins cutting through the surface.   Once spotted, the crew would track them and get the best in the best position to swim with them.  Meanwhile we’d get ready with mask and fins and be prepared to jump in the moment the guide gave us the signal.

Once in the water, the goal would be to swim fast and try to keep up with these massive, fast-moving creatures (without touching or getting in their way). It was exhilarating to be in such close proximity to them, feeling both awe and humility as they effortlessly glided through the ocean. They’d quickly out swim us, so we would need to jump back on the boat and repeat this several times.

As we got back on the boat, the crew made the trip even better by cutting up fresh, juicy mangos and watermelon slices for us to refuel between swims.

We did it for hours both times, spotting several whale sharks on both trips! Seeing that many whale sharks in one trip is incredibly rare and made the experience even more extraordinary.

Lunch and Swimming on a Private Sandbank

For our full day with Mafia Island Experience, we continued on after the whale shark experience to a picturesque sandbank, where we snorkelled and swam while the crew prepared a delicious BBQ lunch. We enjoyed freshly grilled fish, veggies, and a few beers on the sandbank before heading back.

Summary

Mafia Island is truly a special place – an island not known to many, and for that reason, it maintains its rustic charm, incredible reef condition, and amazing marine life. Whether you are an avid diver or simply in love the idea of swimming alongside the world’s largest fish, this island offers a truly unique experience. Part of me hesitates to share this hidden gem, as its untouched charm is what makes it so magical—but it’s an experience worth having, and I hope it stays just as special for future visitors.